Cruise Log #9, Isla Isabela
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Updated January 25th, 2005
We discover why Jacques Cousteau and National Geographic filmed nature documentaries at Isla Isabela.
SolMate's route from Mazatlan to Isla Isabela.
Once again, brilliant timing on the navigator's part put SolMate just north of Isla Isabela
at dawn (okay, so we reduced sail in the wee hours so we didn't plow right past the island
in the dark). The engine enjoyed a holiday - SolMate was a sailboat for almost all of the 85 miles
from Mazatlan - good winds and lots of whales for additional entertainment.
At daybreak we moseyed down the eastern side of the island, where two whales surfaced between
us and the eastside
anchorage. They must have seen our turn signal, because they allowed us to ease over
into their lane to explore our anchoring options. We didn't like the east side much, with
the north wind blowing it was pretty
sloppy, so we headed around the corner to the south anchorage. The cruising guides warned of
rocky pinnacles strewn around inside, so we tippy-toed very gently into the cove, and stayed
near the outer reaches. It took us some
time to set the anchor, but it finally stuck solidly amongst the rocks, just inside the
reef.
South anchorage, Isla Isabela's crater as seen from the hilltop light
atop. Surf is
breaking on the reef off the point near SolMate.
The dinghy landing is through the
upper channel, to the left.
Easy dinghy landing. Yea! The pangero's beach, protected by volcanic rocks on both sides and entered through a protected channel, was calm and gentle, perfect for landing kayaks and dinghies while staying dry.
Isla Isabela light on the ridge above the large, abandoned university
building, the panga landing,
and an extensive fish camp backed by a little lagoon.
Apparently, the University of Guadalajara had great plans for a research station on the island.
However, all we found was an empty shell of a building with broken out windows and doors. An
uninstalled, $20,000 watermaker
languished in a back room, along with the plumbing parts and pieces for installation.
No water was being made, but the iguanas romped in a high-tech playground.
There's plenty to study on the island. The rookeries have been compared to those on
the Galapagos, and like the Galapagos, the animals have lived under conservancy protection
without predators for so long, they're very approachable.
Iguanas.
Frigate Birds, males in mating costume, fluffy babies in their nests.
Booby fledgling sprouting a few adult feathers.
Adult booby setting a couple of eggs.
Arrival at the island was with a healthy north wind, causing the south anchorage to be comfortably secure. Later in the week, however, the wind diminished and shifted towards the west. The swell angled around, too. SolMate started bobbing like a cork. The swell broke on the reef next to her in loud, disconcerting crashes. We had two choices, move on up to the eastside or head down the coast. A new adventure beckoned, so we upped anchor and headed SE for Chacala.
