Cruise Log #10, Chacala
Go backward to Isla Isabela Jump ahead to Punta de Mita Return to the Latest Log
Updated January 28th, 2005
SolMate leaves the natural wonders of Isla Isabela, sails 55 miles back to mainland Mexico to explore the Chacala jungle, then, after an unscheduled delay, we head farther south to Banderas Bay.
SolMate's route from Isla Isabela to Chacala and Punta de Mita in Banderas Bay.
Comfy Gale at anchor, monitoring the GPS plot.
Gale's a happy-cat when the actual sailing is kept to a minimum. He popped out of the cabin as soon as we had the village of Chacala in sight - hit the companionway with that kitty look of relief even before we slowed down; the ocean jostle had ended. He trotted up front to help set the anchor, then returned to his favorite spot on the nav table to unwind.
Chacala met all critical anchoring criteria for cat and crew, holding was good, the roll was comfortable, and the dinghy landings were easy. We anchored close enough to the beach that Stan swam ashore to body surf. The panga pier and the launch ramp both provided excellent (dry!) dinghy landings. Just up the road from the pier was the port captain's office, which would have been convenient had he bothered to open....
Chacala from atop the volcano south of the bay.
SolMate arrived Monday evening and dutifully visited the port captain the next morning.
Surprisingly, he presented us with a bill - the cruising guides specifically stated that Chacala's
check-in was a courtesy only, i.e.: present papers for capitania's stamp,
nothing more. This official check-in confounded our planning: if ya gotsta check in, ya
also gotsta check out.
We pinned down el capitan to Friday check-out, we thought. Oh, sure,
Friday, certainly. Yeh, right. Well, during the ensuing week,
capitania was open for business exactly once, and it wasn't Friday. By the time SolMate was
ready to head out of Chacala, el capitan was nowhere in sight. Matter of fact,
from observation and close scrutiny, we determined the missing captain's office hours were limited to
Tuesdays and Thursdays.
So we hung loose, we cruisers can adjust (we're learning). We swam the 80-degree water, hiked the primeval
forest, and sucked up cervesas and guacamole. The beachside palapa TV even provided US
football playoffs. Dang, it's tough being held hostage in paradise!
Finally, Capitania de Puerto reopened for business. We delivered our papers, he filled out
his papers, we paid, he wrote a receipt, officiously stamped every sheet and cleared us for
departure. SolMate upped anchor ten days after arrival. Not two hours out of the anchorage,
we were reminded why it's a good idea to follow the host-country's rules. Cruising
south towards Banderas Bay, we were surprised by an large navy boat headed our way, looking
intimidating.
As the boys-in-black drew nearer, they broadcast a succinct radio call, "Sailboat, this is the
Mexican Navy. Please, stop your engine." We were positive we'd be boarded, but we
needn't have worried, this party wasn't boarding. Instead, they stood off fifty feet and
quizzed us via VHF. They asked exactly the same questions that the port captain had.
They also requested that all hands should be on deck (perhaps slipping below for
the camera might not have been such a hot idea).
Cross checking? Sure seemed like it to us. In conclusion
they asked, "Have you noticed anything unusual?" You mean like you guys lurking in the shadows
of the islands waiting to pounce on passing cruisers?
